Traveling by song, Yaeyama Islands, 20240103
I started 2024 with a trip to Okinawa.
Before leaving Seoul, I learned that "Sambyeolcho" of Goryeo went to Okinawa, that there is a record of "Yugukguk" in the Joseon Dynasty chronicles, that Hong Gil-dong went to Okinawa, that Jang Han-cheol of Jeju Island drifted to Okinawa, and that the three princesses of “Byeolangguk" were married at the Onpyeong-ri Hon-in Temple in Jeju Island. The Okinawan culture you are experiencing is very complex and unique. Taiwanese, Chinese, Japanese, and Korean cultures intersect in Okinawa. The issue of the US military bases cannot be ignored.
In fact, the purpose of this trip is to see Jeju Island from the outside. So I studied the history of Okinawa, firstly to understand the majesty and influence of the Ryukyu Dynasty in the 15th century, and secondly to understand how the Ryukyu Kingdom became a Japanese colony in 1872, was ruled by the US military for 27 years from 1945, and became a Japanese territory in 1972.
And yesterday and today, I explored the ruins of old castles and shrines dotted around the main island of Okinawa. Like Jeju Island, Okinawa is dotted with shrines in the mountains and by the sea. The difference with Jeju is that even royal tombs are considered shrines, and nature itself is considered sacred rather than the utility of the deities that reside there. The space is meant to connect humans and gods (the universe). It is a place where anyone can come and meet the gods without the help of a shaman, and it is very satisfying to read about Okinawan culture along the path of the gods.
In Okinawa, shamans are called "yuta". I was lucky enough to meet a yuta performing a ritual at "Teda Ukka", a sacred place in eastern Okinawa. It was a personal ritual for the year's abundance, and she was praying. Yuta was very shy about talking to strangers. When the Ryukyu Dynasty ruled the main island of Okinawa in the 15th century, there was a process of creating traditions, and Yuta went into hiding. However, Yuta's role in Okinawa's folk culture is significant. After the Pacific War, Yuta gave people who had lost family members the opportunity to talk to the dead. Today, she still works in secret to pray for people. The Yuta I met briefly were also reluctant to talk to strangers. For various reasons, the culture they form is not easily found on the main island of Okinawa.
Tomorrow, I head to Yonaguni Island and Ishigaki Island. These islands are said to be a treasure trove of folk songs, and although they are part of Japan, they are more closely related to Taiwanese culture. The people there are historically not part of the Ryukyu dynasty and have maintained an independent ethnicity. And they define their identity in the space of islands like Okinawa and Jeju Island, which is a source of pride for them.
One of the most interesting things my friends and I talked about today was that "all sound exists as an experience". I wonder how I missed the sonic narratives about waves, wind, and the physicality of nature.
Tomorrow, I'll probably be most interested in the "people sing for people" theme.
#YaeyamaIslands #JejuIsland #korea #Japan #taiwan #culture #MusicAnthropologist
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